Real Life Omok Set

Discussion in 'Artwork' started by Buccaneer, Sep 11, 2017.

  1. Buccaneer
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    Buccaneer Well-Known Member

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    upload_2017-9-11_2-32-31.png Privateer's Real Life Omok Build upload_2017-9-11_2-32-44.png
    Hello friends!
    This complete build will contain many pictures so beware when you open them! The real life omok set is an original idea thought out by me. I rarely do any arts and crafts but once in a while, I have (what I consider at least) a pretty spiffy idea for something to make, and this time it is an omok set! I will guide you through my personal process and thoughts of what I was planned to do, what I did, and what can be improved in the future if anyone else wants to take this idea and make one for themselves. Keep in mind that there quite an amount of materials and there are many different ways of going about how to build this depending on what is available to you. I got all of my materials from Michaels, but you can be creative of where you find these things. This whole project has been very time consuming and takes many hours to complete. Without further ado because this has been a really long introduction, here is it:

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    Materials:
    • 12" x 12" wooden board
    • a bunch of green beads
    • black and yellow oil based markers
    • tacky glue
    • sandpaper (60 and 150 grit)
    • black yarn
    • orange oven clay
    • box with lid
    • at least 225 wooden beads (20 mm)
    • green spray paint
    • acrylic clear coat spray
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    Step 1: Sanding


    An omok table is a 15 x 15 playing field. That is 225 omok pieces I have to make at least, so I started to sand down the wooden balls. I laid some newspapers over my desk (which was where I was sanding) because I knew the sawdust would go everywhere so trying to at least gather the saw dust in a general area helped with the cleanliness. I used two types of sandpaper, a 60 grit and 150 grit. As the numbers go higher, you get finer and finer grits for sanding. When I sanded one end of the wooden beads, I started with the 60 grit to get a flat surface. Then I used the 150 grit to polish the end so that it doesn't look as rough.
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    Step 2: Marking the Board

    The next thing I did was start to measure and pencil/marker in the omok board. Since omok pieces are placed at the intersections of the lines, I needed to draw 15 evenly spaced lines. I measured out the lines and outlined them in pencil before I permanently drew over them with my black oil-based markers. I used a 12" ruler to draw the lines to keep it completely straight. The 1st attempt on the board, the markers were pretty bad and were leaky at times. There was a huge pool of black oil on it so I went back to the store to get a new set of markers (Sharpie brand delivered).

    A close up shop reveals that the markers will bleed a little when you are using it against the grain of the wood. It unfortunately seems unavoidable because the wood soaks up the oil and it would just bleed a little like that. It's not a big deal by any means, so I let it be.

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    Step 3: Finishing the Board

    I wanted to touch up the board by first sanding the edges of the board so it's not that rough and then spraying a few layers of acrylic over it. I used the 150 grit sandpaper to sand the top corners and a little bit of the edge to take off some of the bite while handling the board.

    After sanding, I wiped down the board from the excess sand. If you want to be extra careful, you can use a compressed air spray can to get rid of all the sawdust on it from sanding. I laid down some old mattress bedding in my garage so that when I spray my acrylic, it won't ruin anything else. When I was doing the spraying, I wore a mask so I won't breathe in the fumes. Simply sprayed a layer of acrylic over the top of the board and let it dry for 15 minutes. I wanted more layers on it so I sprayed 4 layers of acrylic over the board. I tried to keep the spraying as even as possible.

    Improvement: I was surprised at how ineffective the spray was for the board. I think it did lay down some layers of acrylic on the board, but it was barely noticeable. My goal was to have a decent layer of gloss over it so it would have a smooth and clear finish over it. My initial plan was to paint the top over with polyurethane which would give it a nice gloss. This option was too expensive for me and had more room for error if done incorrectly so I used the much easier to use acrylic spray can.


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    Step 4: Spraying the Wooden Beads


    All the wooden beads have been sanded down so I got 1/2 of the wooden beads and started to spray them. I also did this in the garage and wore a mask because I ain't dying to fumes! Wearing gloves is important too since spraying the beads is a very messy job. When I started spraying, I sprayed the beads one at a time and I realized I will quickly run out of spray since a lot of the pigment is going into the air. I then set up evenly spaced out groups of beads and laid them on a cardboard box and I did a mass spray paint for a batch of them at a time. This saved a lot of spray juice. The one downside to this is that sometimes you can't reach the bottom part of the wooden beads, so I was looking all around for any missed spots.

    One thing I noticed is that for some beads, the paint started to drip down and the beads were sticking to the cardboard. After the beads dried and I picked them up, pieces of the cardboard stuck to the bottoms of the beads. To resolve this issue, I re-sanded the bottom of each of the beads so it wouldn't have an ugly piece of cardboard stuck to the bottom.

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    Step 5: Finishing the Slime Omok Piece

    First I drew the cute :3 face on all of the slime pieces using the oil based marker. Then I cut 1 inch long pieces of black yarn so I can attach the slime bubble to the body of the slime piece. I put a tab of glue on the inside of the green transparent bead and rolled the end of the yarn in the tacky glue to maximize the surface of where it will stick to. Leaving a whole set of the slime bubbles to dry is important since it took a little bit for the glue to dry and I didn't want to move any of the pieces at all.

    After I glued the piece of yarn to the top of the slime bubble, I glued that finished slime bubble piece to the main body of the slime and left it overnight to dry again.

    Improvement: Used a different, stickier, type of glue. I found out that this glue isn't very sticky to the wooden surface nor to the plastic surface of the green transparent small bead. This is a HUGE improvement for this build because after I finished it all, I realized I needed to handle the pieces very well or else roughly placing them down or dropping them could mean that the entities will separate. I'm not sure what kind of glue would work better and I'm sure there are many other types of glue for this job, but tacky glue was nota very good glue for strong holds.

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    Step 6: Finishing the Mushroom Omok Piece

    What is nice about the mushroom piece is that the body didn't need to be sprayed since the natural color of the mushroom was the wooden color. I simply drew a face on it before putting the mushroom hats on it.

    With the mushroom hats, I made evenly sized balls all at once and then flattened them and shaped them to the curve of the wooden beads. I tried to make the clay all the same thickness and diameter. A good way to check the diameter was just to place the unbaked clay over a wooden ball to get the curvature right and look completely down to get the diameter right. After I made all of the clay pieces, I baked them for a little while to harden them.
    I put a piece of aluminum foil over the baking tray to preserve the tray itself. 1/3 of one batch of mushroom hats was a little over baked, so there were a dark circle at the top where the clay was in contact with the baking tray.

    Then, I used my yellow oil-based marker to draw small circles on top of the mushroom hats. Fortunately, the oil-based markers covered most of the dark circles so it wouldn't look so ugly. After a short while waiting for the yellow marker to dry, I glued the top of the hardened clay to the body of the mushroom and let that dry overnight.

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    ___________________________Finished Omok Pictures___________________________

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    I hope you all enjoyed this build as much as I did! It was quite a journey but I think the end product looks great and was well worth my time. <3

    Peace,
    Privateer
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2017
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  2. Dutchess
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    Dutchess Donator

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    Wow, this is absolutely amazing! always makes me so happy to see something someone put their heart and soul into :3
     
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  3. Charlie
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    Charlie Well-Known Member

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    This is actually so cool, have fun finding random broken off slime bubbles in ~1 year. >:D
     
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  4. Dre
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    Dre Well-Known Member

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    Wow how'd you know my birthday was coming up Jackson?! THANKS <3
     
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  5. Buccaneer
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    Buccaneer Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the kind words :D
    I bet they will all break in shipping ;-; I'll need to find a better glue to use to re-glue
    Wow it actually is coming up!! Sorry this set is for someone else :( I don't know if I'll ever make another set since it is so expensive and very time consuming. If I ever gather my energy, I may make one for myself with some new upgrades to make it even more dank :p
     
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  6. Scab
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    Really cool!
    Another idea for the board would be pyrography, using a soldering iron to make dark/black lines by heating/burning the wood.
     
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  7. Venin
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    Venin Well-Known Member

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    Oh wow, this is beyond amazing!!! One improvement I can suggest is that at each point where the horizontal crosses the vertical lines, there will be a small hole right there. Coupled with that, underneath each omok piece will have a small protrusion that matches the hole. That way the omok pieces stay in place and they will align neatly!
     
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  8. tanzor
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    tanzor Well-Known Member

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    Hey this is really cool. I showed my wife and she is insiting we build one ourselves1 ty for this!
     
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  9. Nemo
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    Woaaa, I couldn't say a word, this whole thing is beyond amazing! wish I could help you
     
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  10. Kai
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    Kai Donator

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    Someone give this man a job at N*XON! What a marketable idea.
     
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  11. RelievedSin
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    Damn Jackson, that's amazingly cool! I won't tell her that you're making a super cool surprise <3
    But I'm TOTALLY going to try doing something like this.
    SoonTM
     
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  12. ErsatzCats
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    Looks amazing!! The time and effort you put into it really shows. I' love to have one of these in real life, haha. Omok is by far one of my favorite things in the game.. when it gets implemented, I'll stop grinding levels and grind my omok rating instead. :D
     
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  13. xBunBuns
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    Waooo it looks amazing Jackson! Good job! :D
     
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    Jackson you're sexy
     
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    Ayyy Jackson contributing to the arts as always :> with something of his own this time! Love the real life omok set!
     
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    I'm so proud of you lol ~f14
     
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    OMG ! sounds like a good idea to monetize ! definitely need to talk to u in private ! xD
     
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    This is so cool! You should sell these babies on Etsy.
     
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  19. Sen
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    OMG I LOVE THIS
     
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    good stuff man this is epic!! I just joined royals recently and actually u were the first lv 200 ive seen in game.

    ign: amezing
     
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